First of all we need to chat about how different everyones eye shapes are. Some eye shapes can be recognized immediately based on a specific ethnic group, such as Asian, who have the most distinct shape. Asian eyes have covered inside corners, a single eyelid, and oftentimes, downward facing lashes. Those downward facing lashes can be a struggle. What lash curl do you think would be best? L+ of course!
European eyes, by contrast, usually have the inner corner of the eye more exposed with an external fold. Eye shape isn't always ethnicity-dependent. Any ethnic group can have heavily hooded eyes, deep set eyes, downturned eyes or even almond eyes that change with age and genetics.
Did you know?
Only true blue or brown eyes actually exist! Mixes of different colours like green and hazel are produced by the washes that glaze over the iris. So a green eye is usually blue with a yellow wash. Eye colour can also change as we age.
What do you need to frame an eye?
- Lash shield or tape
- A coloured sharpie (the more colours the better)
- A variety of lengths, widths and curl
Things to determine:
- The client's eye shape
- Brow shape and color
- Face structure
- Natural lash structure
- Inconsistency on lash line
- Asymmetrical eyes
How to assess?
You can frame the eye two ways: Open or Closed
Framing an open eye can be tricky, especially if you decide to frame an opened eye. You can use a skin friendly marker to place dots on their skin to keep things symmetrical and easy for when they close their eyes.
Place a shield under the eye and begin using a pen to create lines in correspondence to the dots on the skin. How many layers you use is entirely dependent on how full or dense the lash set will be. We always recommend using our 3 Layer Framing Technique.
Start with those little tiny baby lashes. They are usually the thinnest and shortest lashes. What cycle are they in? ANAGEN, right? We map depending on the stage of the natural lashes. Why? Because anagen lashes require shorter lengths and thin widths. There is an inverse relationship between length and width. As you increase in the length you should decrease in width to ensure you do not compromise the natural lash.
You will need to determine the style that works best based on how curly, long, thick and health the natural lashes are. Even when you have 1 layer you can still use different curls. It doesn't have to be the exact same curl throughout. Just like with lengths. Switch it up girl - be legendary!
Example of layer 1 - Anagen
Inside: 7C 8C 7C 9D 7D 7C :outside
See how we use different lengths and curls. Why C on the end? It creates more of a "sexy eye".
Layer 1 is basically a base, a support system for your work. Kinda like a foundation for building a home. Keep layer 1 tight and clean. A strong foundation will optimize retention.
This is the middle section and it will most likely be a mixture of catagen and telogen lashes. The middle section is your buffer zone. If you get too crazy with curls, such as adding B, C, L+ etc in with all the others it can begin to look a little bit funky. The buffer zone should be consistent and have purpose. What does that mean? The middle section should follow whatever lash style you are going with. If you are creating a doll eye, create a doll eye. Don't make slight changes here - stay consistent.
Example of Doll Eye:
Inner corner - 2nd layer (middle layer - buffer zone) to outside corner
Inside: 8C 9D 10D 11D 12D 11D 10D :Outside
The final layer, this is the last framing. You may find a combination of anagen, catagen and telogen. This layer will be your finishing touch. Your work of art will begin to really come together. You can maneuver any areas that look inconsistent, hide gaps, etc. We leave layer 3 to perfect the set. You will need to follow a similar style as layer 1 + 2. If you navigate from what you've already framed the density can become too much. Lashes may drop into the eye, may not stay in the same place, etc.
Layer 1: 7C 8C 7C 9D 7D 7C (not as many variants because the line across is smaller, or layer 1 isn't as wide as layer 2.)
Layer 2: 8C 9D 10D 11D 12D 11D 10D (this shows the lash style, in this case doll eye)
Layer 3: 7C 9D 11D 13D 11D 9D